Walker Tea Review » review

Tea Store Evaluation- Mark T. Wendell

Jason — Wed, 02 May 2012 19:10:37 +0000

Part of a series on evaluating online tea stores.

A look at Mark T. Wendell Tea Company in the areas of quality, selection, and tea community.

Quality: Wendell’s teas weave between quality and value. For the vast majority of their loose leaf teas, the minimum tin size is 4 ounces. This is a relatively large volume, considering several other retailers start packaging options as low as 25 grams (0.88 oz) or 2 ounces. With sizes options of up to 1 lb, Wendell’s model is great for when you find a tea you like and frequently return to that tea.

Wendell is generally stronger in sourcing black teas from India. Looking back at the scores for Chinese greens indicates these are safe but less remarkable teas.

One of the stand-outs of Wendell is their Hu-Kwa. This lapsang souchong takes its name from a Qing dynasty merchant who was one of the richest men in the world of his day. This particular lapsang souchong is described as coming from Taiwan (Formosa). The history of the tea’s name carries some wealth of tradition. Reaching far enough back, an ancestor of the family owning Wendell actually did business with Hu Kwa.

Selection: I counted: 13 black teas, 11 green, 6 wulong (oolong), 3 pu’er, 2 white, and 1 yellow teas, not counting flavored teas, flowering, teas, and teas offered under the Foojoy brand. The black tea selection also had the wider variety of sources, including India, China, Kenya, and Indonesia. Green teas were predominantly Chinese in origin, with a few Japanese greens.

Tea Community: Mark T. Wendell does have a blog, and can be found on Facebook. The interaction on the blog varies from weekly to monthly, but Facebook action is a more frequent. You could go there to send a “hello” to Hartley and the team. It may be worthwhile to look at some of the customer posts there to see what teas are popular.

Conclusion: Be specific when shopping at Wendell. Focus on the black teas, and only get the greens if you already know you like them. Get the Hu-Kwa if you like lapsang souchong, and want to experience the history.

See Mark T. Wendell tea reviews here.

Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings. Operated by Jason Walker.

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Book Review- Culinary Tea

Jason — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 17:22:41 +0000

In 2011, I was able to talk with Cynthia Gold at World Tea Expo about this book.

The impression I got from Cynthia and Culinary Tea was that tea can and should be looked upon as more than a beverage. It is also a spice, an ingredient that we can experiment with in creating new delights.

A few details about the book:

over 100 recipes
Chapters with background on tea types, flavor profiles, and tea preparation
Recipe chapters on: starters, entrees, desserts, and beverages (including cocktails)
Excellent photography of tea locations and dishes. Not all dishes are photographed

In talking and reading the book, I was left wondering who this book is speaking to. Certainly not the Rachel Ray- type audience. Many of the more unique recipes require ingredients not found in every home kitchen. Following a recipe will require having things like lemon grass, star anise, or bonito flakes on hand. Only the more devoted tea drinkers will have the full collection of teas employed throughout the book. Several dishes also require pre-made elements, like tea-marinade, tea-smoked salt, or dry-rub made with tea leaves. A chef might take on a recipe daily, but I’m afraid the general reader will spend most time dreaming of preparing these meals more than once a month (if that).

Given the prep time and accumulation of unique ingredients needed, I have only personally tasted a handful of creations. Of those I did, I was not always able to distinguish a distinct tea flavor. I was left wondering- would I have missed the tea ingredient if it had been omitted?

The real treasure in this volume is not the recipes themselves, but the inspiration they spark. I had been putting matcha in my morning oatmeal before this book. But after reading and talking with others, I had personal success with an orange pu’erand duck soup. Culinary Tea contains nuggets of tea-wealth. Even a cook pressed for time can find ways to crumble a few leaves into a dish and see what happens. A little bit of leftover tea can replace plain water in some cases. Culinary Tea opens your eyes to those opportunities, and tips the balance away from error and more rewarding taste experiences.

Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings.
Want to see a tea reviewed? Contact me: jason@walkerteareview.com

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Book Review: James Norwood Pratt’s Tea Dictionary

Jason — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 16:03:27 +0000

In the early years of the American Revolution, Noah Webster created a book that was the foundation of American education. Webster believed that words had real power to shape a people. The result of his work and belief was the Blue Backed Speller, a book that educated American school children for nearly a century.

Norwood Pratt has gifted the fledgling U. S. tea industry with a similar Promethian flame. His Tea Dictionary will be the go-to for hundreds, if not thousands of writers, connoisseurs, and industry professionals seeking concise and extensive tea information.

Although Pratt’s is not the first tea dictionary in the English language, it is much better suited to stand the test of time. When Ukers wrote All About Tea back in 1935, China did not have a standardized romanization of its characters. This new tea dictionary includes Chinese characters, spellings, and scientific terms for tea manufacture that have greater staying power. Stronger cultural and scientific bridges have been built. This tea dictionary stands on that solid footing.

The Tea Dictionary is not just Chinese and Indian tea terms. You can find tea tasting lingo. Key objects and locations from tea history are defined. Tea manufacturing terms are covered. Not to mention tea definitions for Japanese, Korean, Sri Lankan, Taiwanese, and many other teas and tea cultures.

Tea professionals and tea drinkers will use the Tea Dictionary to better approach the chemistry of tea. With the flick of a few pages, the differences between antioxidants, polyphenols, EGCG, and catechins are explained. Currently, this vocabulary is too haphazardly drawn from the “it’s-good-for-you” pile of marketing ammunition. The Tea Dictionary aids us in precise usage.

Could the dictionary be improved? Yes. Beautiful photography is scattered through the work. Some of which increases understanding of the entries. Other illustrations seem to be there more for aesthetic reasons. There is a thorough set of maps in the back that plot production areas by country, region, and even province. These maps are a far cry from Johnson’s World Atlas of Wine. Granted, the dictionary is not intended to be an atlas. But perhaps some of the photography budget could have been cut in favor of topographical, more detailed maps? As mentioned, pronunciation helps and Chinese characters make a helpful appearance. But the pronunciation helps were not always consistent. Sometimes they were not there when needed. Subsequent editions will no doubt correct for these shortcomings.

In all, the abundant wealth of information in the Tea Dictionary assures James Norwood Pratt’s position as the Schoolmaster of the American Tea Renaissance.

Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings.
Want to see a tea reviewed? Contact me: jason@walkerteareview.com

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Tea Gift Guide- Top Teas, Tea Ware, and Tea Books

Jason — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 18:55:26 +0000

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I’ve collected my list of teas, tea ware, and tea books that have shaped my 2011 into an enjoyable tea-year. Many of the teas listed reflect the classic beauty that defined teas of their tradition. Others are newer, soon-to-be treasures.

A useful list for when you:

Have a friend or family member who loves tea, but you’re at a loss as to what to buy.
Have been drinking grocery store teas, and ready to graduate to the next level.
Are planning to make healthier choices for the new year.
Want to cultivate a fonder love of tea.

If you have questions or want advice on tea gifts, contact me: jason@walkerteareview.com

Teas

Green teas

Wulong teas

Black teas

Tea Ware

Books

The Story of Tea: A Cultural History and Drinking Guide. For helping understand where teas are grown and how they are processed.
Culinary Tea. Inspired use of tea in excellent dishes. As a result of this book, I created a delightful soup with duck and pu’er.
New Tea Lover’s Treasury. Pratt is the Bill Bryson of tea storytelling. Rarely is historical background so well packaged into an enchanting, flowing, narrative.
Harney & Son’s Guide to Tea. No-nonsense description of what teas should be and how they should taste. Harney goes beyond the cliched tea terms like “grassy” to give meaningful descriptors.
The True History of Tea. Fascinating, well-researched background on tea. Learn how tea created the dalai lama.
James Norwood Pratt’s Tea Dictionary. For the true tea geek, a resource for all those words and terms you wondered about.
The Tea Drinker’s Handbook. An all-around useful resource on tea production and tea appreciation. Especially useful are the sections on tea preparation and tea-drinking as a sensory experience.

Compare teas on the Scoresheet.
Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings.
Want to see a tea reviewed? Contact me: jason@walkerteareview.com

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Product Review: Libre Tea’s Glass’n Poly Original

Jason — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 16:00:09 +0000

Comment:

Pros: Glass interior; Protective poly exterior; BPA-free, Solid stainless steel filter construction; Good size, Versatile (can remove filter easily).

Cons: Careful when placing tea above the filter and inverting to steep. When you set it aright you may still have hot, pressurized steam/water trying to escape.

Price (as of post): Original size (260mL / 9oz) = $24
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Sample provided by Libre Tea.
Compare teas with others on the Scoresheet.
Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings.
Want to see a tea reviewed? Contact me: jason@walkerteareview.com

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A Trip to MaLianDao, or Navigating a Tea Market

Jason — Thu, 28 Apr 2011 15:23:55 +0000

Last week I happened to be in the Beijing neighborhood, so I thought I check out one of (probably) the world’s biggest tea market areas. I had heard several U.S. tea retailers tell tales of the place, and so I had big expectations. Maybe too big.

"ma lian dao cha cheng" is just one of many markets/shops on the street

First of all, the place is big. Multiple buildings holding 2 or more storys with dozens, if not hundreds of vendors. At first this seems to be the tea-kid’s candy shop.

Until you look closer. A lot of vendors are selling the same stuff. I mean nearly exactly. I can’t tell you how many places were offering the same pu’er cakes, the same da hong pao sitting in bulk boxes with the same brand logo on the outside. These guys weren’t specializing, they were price competing. And when you did stop to taste I often got the most insipid, pale thimbleful of tea I’ve had in a long while. I mean, I’ve seen darker water come out of rusty pipes than what they served as Wuyi wulong.

stacks of cheap clay pots- buy for friends or leave on the shelf?

There were gems and charming spots, so the rant can end here. There were lessons to be gleaned.

Look for vendors who specialize. Go to a Fujian wulong dealer who only has Fujian oolongs on the shelf. What also helped was asking for more obscure teas like tie luo han. There were too many stores hawking da hong pao. I figured: “If the vendor has tie luo han and at least some mid-grade shui xian, he’s more likely to have some serious da hong pao.
Shop around. Do your homework. Don’t just waltz into the first store you come to and start chatting up the staff. They will likely be trying to chat you up to make you stay and buy tea. Ma Lian Dao has several large markets in the area. You could spend days walking past stalls to find the right tea at the right price.

one hall in the endless maze of tea stalls
Don’t taste tea unless you are seriously considering the tea. The longer you stay, the more likely you will feel obligated to buy, and the more pressure the vendor will feel to make a sale.
When you do taste, take (at most) two sips of each steeping, then pour out the rest. Show the vendor you are serious about tasting the tea, not quenching thirst.
Ask the vendor to really push the tea. Ask them to steep longer (i.e. 30 seconds to 1 minute) if they give you thin, insipid steepings. Don’t let them combine steepings (e.g. first and second steepings) and then serve. You need to now how long the tea can last. Salespeople will do most anything to cover the flaws of their product. Caveat emptor!
Ask about different grades, and see if you can sample the top two grades. You may be able to discern a difference, or you may not.

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Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings. Operated by Jason Walker.

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Tea Ware Review: Adagio’s “Harbin” Yixing Teapot

Jason — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:00:34 +0000

Comment: consider this as a starter yixing for the office or everyday use. Works well with several Chinese greens and many darker roasted wulongs. Consider dedicating it to one category of tea (e.g. dark roasted wulongs) as aromas accumulate in the pot.

well, actually teapot!

Price (as of post): $34

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Compare teas with others on the Scoresheet.
Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings. Operated by Jason Walker.
Sample provided by Adagio.

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Why I write about tea.

Jason — Mon, 01 Nov 2010 11:59:16 +0000

I do precious little writing about tea.
Instead, I create a stage with tea in the center.
I learned a lot about tea just from watching;
If you observe a graceful, skillful hand
Not a drop spilled or a fingertip scalded.
See how the aroma is inhaled-
And the resulting relationships built on sips

The tea Way:
is an artful way;
a skillful way;
a peaceful way;
a mindful way;
a calming way.
A way to show the character of the Preparer,
and a way to show the tea’s true colors.

Reserve Tea Package

Jason — Fri, 29 Oct 2010 20:40:19 +0000

Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings. Operated by Jason Walker.
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This week in tea

Jason — Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:13:09 +0000

This week (as usual, actually), my tea colleagues have produced some treasures. Here’s a highlight of news and info in the tea blogosphere:

Toki shares his Da Hong Pao Wuyi Oolong. Vintage 1985 on The Mandarin’s Tea. Note Toki’s extensive tasting methodology. His highly trained palate realized this da hong pao was not as advertised, and did not make the cut.
Mattcha did his research to show the Christian connections to the Japanese tea ceremony. Even Asian churches are combining tea rooms with their worship centers. Tea is no substitute for Eucharist, but does provide an environment for reflection and communion. See: Christianity & The Tea Ceremony: Reverence For The Holy Spirit
Speaking of communing, I bring you these 2 articles on tea preparation. Brewing Long Jing (dragonwell) from Life in Teacup and tea with skill from TChing both show how that perfect cup of tea arrives less by following precise instructions and more on understanding and responding to the tea you have.
Don’t forget the approach of Earth Day. Cinnabar of Gongfu Girl reports on Adagio Tea’s program forPlanting tea trees via your own tea seeds, and a place in a Chinese tea garden.
Finally, for our Canadian tea-drinking brethren and sisters. Teas Etc Inc. received Canadian Organic Certification Equivalency in late November. The company’s organic certifying agency, Quality Certification Services (QCS), conducted Teas Etc’ annual inspection and, in accordance with the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) rule, granted Canadian General Services Board (CGSB) certified supplier status.